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KOKOSHNIK

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KOKOSHNIK

Made by: Unknown

Currently in storage


About this object

The kokoshnik is a triangular style generally found in Northern Russia, particularly in Kostroma. The front of the headdress is covered with strips of gold plate thread couched in a horizontal pattern. Sewn over this a generalized floral design in the distinctly Russian style of pearl embroidery in which each pearl was sewn on to a foundation of white cording. Unlike earlier examples of pearl embroidery, in which brightly colored pastes surrounded the line of pearls, the pearls on this kokoshnik encircle florets of opaque, turquoise-colored pastes surrounding red or purple paste stones. The pattern of pearl embroidery is enhanced by silver thread embroidery using purls, plate, and a variety of textured metal threads that follows or embellishes the basic pattern of the pearl embroidery. The area that would have sat directly above the wearer’s head is decorated with three traditional examples of floral ornament rendered exclusively in pearl embroidery. The use of silver metal threads on the front of the headdress is so extensive that it nearly obscures the bright gold plate. The stiffened back of the headdress is covered with strips of gold plate thread couched in a zigzag pattern. Over this pieces of silver lace have been sewn in a decorative scrolling pattern. The interior of the back is lined with a faded, now orange silk, while the interior of the front is line with a brighter yellow silk.

Category:
costume, national
Object name:
KOKOSHNIK
Made from:
Silk -- linen -- cotton -- gold plate thread -- gold-wrapped silk thread -- silver-wrapped silk thread -- seed pearls -- turquoise-colored stones -- colored pastes
Made in:
Kostroma, Russia
Date made:
Late 18th c.-Early 19th c.
Size:
35.9 × 19.1 × 10.2 cm (14 1/8 × 7 1/2 × 4 in.)

Detailed information for this item

Catalog number:
47.52
Class:
Dress (Culture-Related Concept)
Signature marks:
Credit line:
Museum Purchase, 2006