Back to search results

STIKHAR'

Creator(s): Unknown (Manufacturer)

Currently in storage


About this object

The stikhar' is made of a figured silk with large, brightly colored bunches of flowers in pinks, yellows, and blues interspersed with grape leaves in gold-wrapped thread set against a bright purple background. The pattern on this garment uses identifiable flowers such as peonies and chrysanthemums. At the turn of the century, ecclesiastical fabrics were much more likely to use abstracted floral or biomorphic forms. The fabric is machine made in 21 inch wide panels. The garment is somewhat unusual in that it has a mandarin collar. The great majority of stikhars are collarless. The apparels (decorative bands) are made of machine-made gold lace, but unmatching sizes and patterns have been used. (Pieces around the yoke are 2 inches wide, while the inner bands on the sleeves are 1 3/4 inches wide.) The cross that is applied to the back of all stikhars in this case has been crudely constructed of the same gold lace bands used for the apparels. It has been somewhat inexpertly applied and is not straight. Seven twisted silk cords are visible on each side of the opening where the silver-gilt buttons were once attached. A larger, yellow silk cord is still attached at the collar, but the silver-gilt button has been removed.

Object name:
STIKHAR'
Made from:
Silk -- cotton -- gold-wrapped silk thread -- gold or metallic lace -- silk cord
Made in:
Russia
Date made:
1874
Size:
55 3/8 × 59 in. (140.7 × 149.9 cm)

Detailed information for this item

Catalog number:
44.68
Signature marks:
inscription XII No 1535/51 Sdelan" na sredstva L A V R Y 1874 godu Typed on white label sewn into underside, front hem. Trans: "XII No. 1535/51 Made with funds from the Lavra 1874." Note: Text is in pre-1918 script. inscription Vsh 6148 Handwritten on UL of white label sewn into underside, front hem. Meaning of the Cyrillic initials "V.sh." are not known. inscription 56 [crossed out] [illegible, handwritten Cyrillic word] Handwritten on UR of white label sewn into underside, front hem. inscription 3 inv 27432 Handwritten in purple ink on UL of white label. Inscription is written in pre-1918 letters. inscription 02453 30/k a ia Handwritten on LR of white label sewn into underside, front hem. inscription 45. [crossed out] Handwritten inside mandarin collar, proper right. inscription 2a samaia menshaia [sic] Handwritten inside mandarin collar, proper right. Trans: "Second smallest" Note: The comparative adjective "smallest" is slightly misspelled. There should be a soft sign after the 'n.' Also, note that the adjectives are modifying a feminine noun. Stikhar' is masculine.
Credit line:
Gift of Mrs. Robert S. Bolan, 2002